|
Oolong tea
Oolong - this is the European variant of pronunciation of a Chinese word "u-loon", which is translated as "Black Dragon".
This grade of tea is placed in the middle between non-fermented green teas and fully fermented black teas. The level of fermentation of classic oolong-s is about 40-50%. They are made of mature leaves, young leaves are not used. Mature leaves are gathered from adult tea-bushes. After being gathered, tea-leaves must be put in a thin layer on special bamboo mats on the ground. Under the straight sunshine they wither and dry. The time of drying is about 30-60 minutes depending on the temperature.
The next stage of manufacturing is very unusual. Withered leaves are put in a thin layer into large bamboo tea-trays, which resemble baskets. Then these trays are put in the shadow. Almost every hour the leaves must be turned over and kneaded. It is necessary not to brake or grind them. This procedure (turning over and kneading) is repeated for several times until the sides and trampled parts of the leaves become red and brown, at the same time the veins and central parts of the leaves must stay green.
The degree of fermentation of the leaves depends on the type of oolong. It
may change for 20% for green Chinese oolong-s, for 60% for the oolong
"Formosa Classic". As soon as the desirable degree of fermentation
is achieved, the process of fermentation must be immediately stopped.
This is made by the heat treatment of the leaves. Very often oolong-s
are dried in several steps:
1. Short-term initial drying;
2. Twining;
3. Final drying.
The initial drying (panning) is done manually on the baking trays
on the open flame or in the ovens under the temperature of 250-300
degrees for about 15 minutes. Panning is necessary, because it stops
fermentation.
The initial drying is done in several motions (2-4): the raw material
from the oven is quenched, and then it must be twisted. After that
it is dried in the oven, quenched and twisted again. One of these
stages is the final drying. Some kinds of oolong-s must not be twisted.
Final drying of such oolongs is just after panning. Because of such
multi-stage technology the taste and the degree of fermentation
of oolong-s may vary a lot.
When the process of production is finished, oolong-s are purely
leaf teas. If you see small-leaved tea (broken), it's not oolong.
Probably it is screenings or falsification. Dry tea-leaves of oolong
are rather large, twisted, deep-brown (chestnut-colored, sometimes
foxy) with a strong heady aroma.
The process of brewing is very delicate, because it depends on
the grade of oolong, on the degree of fermentation. If the degree
of fermentation is low, about 20-30% as a Chinese grade "Ti Kuan
Yin" (Tai Guanyin), the conditions of brewing are close to the brewing
of the green teas - hot water (not boiling, about 60-80 degrees),
the time of brewing - 1-3 minutes. If the leaves are very fermented,
the time of brewing must be longer - 2-5 minutes.
After brewing, high-quality oolong has pronounced features, which
distinguish it from the other grades of tea. The most high-grade
oolong-s have strongly pronounced rich flower aroma and splendid
peachy taste. Sometimes people say, that oolong is a sharp and heady
tea. The color of the brew may be different: sometimes it is pale
nephritic as the green tea is, it may be also dark goldish and even
dark red.
The most famous producers of oolong-s are China (Fujian and Junnan),
and Taiwan (Formosa). More than thirty grades of oolong are popular
and are exported all over the world.
The most popular are these ones: Formosa Oolong. It is grown and
produced in Taiwan, and named after the province it is grown in.
It is considered to be of best quality and reasonable price among
all oolong-s. If it is brewed correctly, this grade of tea has golden-yellow
color (first brewing), and that's why Taiwan oolong-s are called
"champagne teas".
Usually there are special markings on the packets of Taiwan oolong-s.
They indicate the quality of the tea, not the size of the leaves.
1. Fanciest or Extra Fancy;
2. Fancy;
3. Extra Choice or Extra Fine;
4. Fine;
5. Fully Superior;
6. Superior;
7. Good;
8. Common or Standard.
Te Kuan In (Tai Guan In). It is a magnificent
Chinese oolong, which is not worse, sometimes even better, than
Taiwan oolong-s. The color of the brew varies from white-pink to
goldish, peachy taste is strongly pronounced, aroma is very rich.
After drinking this tea, there must be specific honey taste in your
mouth. This tea was known from 17-th century, it is grown mainly
in the province Fujian. It is famous for the ability to be brewed
for about 7 times, if you use traditional Chinese procedure Gunfu-cha.
Retail price of this tea in the USA varies from 20 to 200 dollars
per pound. In Russia the price is almost the same.
Pu Ehr is an unusual large-leaved tea with a
distinctive "earthen" taste. Basically it is considered to be separate
grade of tea. Very often Chinese call it black tea. It is known
in China (Tibet) from the 12-th century. Pu Ehrs of high quality
are made of Junnan large-leaved tea. The degree
of its fermentation is 60-65%, sometimes it is considered to be
dark blue or black tea. When the tea-leaves are ready, they are
large, deep-brown, and sometimes even black, stiff, with distinctive
"smoky" smell. Pu Ehr must be brewed with hot water (90-95 degrees)
and infused for 3-5 minutes. The brewed tea is very dark, nut or
deep-brown. It has strongly pronounced earthen aroma and taste.
The taste may be also sweetish.
Pu Ehr is famous for its healing power, it is a drug, which cures
illnesses of digestive system. Many Cninese take this drink solely
like medicine.
It is necessary to get accustomed to drinking Pu Ehrs. The term
"earthen" taste must be understood literally, because the taste
of Pu Ehr resembles the taste of dust or dirt. This is not a criticism,
it is just warning for the beginners. It is recommended to add some
milk to Pu Ehr to soften the taste.
In China this grade of tea is sold in standard tea-packets, or
in round packets, which have the shape of a cake (the firm name
is Pu`er Cake Tea). Some grades of Pu Ehr are grown and processed
in such a way, that a thin layer of mould must appear and remain
on the leaves. It is considered that Pu Ehrs may be kept for a long
time. If mould appears on it after long keeping, it is considered,
that it makes the taste of the tea better. Some of eastern customers
are frightened by the mould on the Pu`er Cake Tea, but they must
know, that in the Eastern countries mould is used in cookery, too
(for example, when some kinds of cheese are made). In some Chinese
dialects the name of this tea is pronounced as "po lay".
|
